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Brand Spotlight: Oak Street Bootmakers

2014.05.29 16:43 a_robot_with_dreams Brand Spotlight: Oak Street Bootmakers

Introduction
Oak Street Bootmakers was founded in Chicago in 2009 by George Vlagos as a handsewing operation. A year later, Oak Street introduced its trench line of shoes, which were Goodyear-welted shoes. Although private label relationships always have the potential to be complicated, the simplified version is that Oak Street contracts out handsewn production to Highland Shoe Company in Bangor, Maine and trench line (Goodyear-welted) production to PW Minor in Batavia, New York. Note that at least the trench line is built on a last unique ot Oak Street Bootmakers, the Elston last. Oak Street has also developed a new last for their upcoming derby release, which does not currently have an established date. Oak Street’s offices are located in Chicago. Independence Chicago is the Oak Street Bootmakers storefront. Vlagos has said that the proximity of Oak Street to the Horween tannery allows them an advantage in leather selection and interactions with the tannery.
For more information on Highland Shoe Company and the Maine handsewing industry, please see this post. I’ve also included a relevant excerpt below:
Started by Adam Sutton, Highland Shoe Company does not own a line, but contracts for many other lines in the US. Their factory is located in Brewer, ME. Highland produces shoes for Yuketen, Timberland, Red Wing, Oak Street Bootmakers, Alden Cape Cod, and Sperry Top-Sider, and their factory produces just over 400 shoes per week and employs about 35 people. Founded in 2003, Highland Shoe Company was bought by Justin Brands, Inc in May of 2013, which is a subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway and also owns Justin Boot Co., Tony Lama Boot Co., Nocona Boot Co., Chippewa Boot Co. and Justin Original Workboots. Of the shoes Highland makes, they estimate 50 to 60% of their shoes are exported to Asain markets.
PW Minor was started in 1867 by Peter Wycoff and Abraham Minor, and has remained in the family since its founding. It has made its living primarily as an orthopaedic shoemaker (recall that Alden did the same for much of its existence), although it also has a heritage line. Moulded Shoe in New York City has also done some special makeups that were made by PW Minor.
Construction
Oak Street’s handsewn shoes use traditional handsewn moccasin construction. In this construction method, the upper leather wraps underneath the foot, and a sole is then stitched onto the upper. This can be a leather midsole or rubber slipsole, as is the case with soles such as a lug or vibram wedge sole (which are then cemented onto the mid- or slipsole), or it can be the outsole, as in the case of a camp sole. This video of the Rancourt factory demonstrates handsewn construction. Note that Rancourt is not related to Oak Street’s construction, and this is merely an example of the construction method. However, Rancourt and Highland construction is comparable in quality.
For the most part, Oak Street uses tucks in their handsewn moccasin constructed shoes, which is a small piece inserted between the wraparound upper and heel pad that is also in the stitched construction. Oak Street’s tucks are made of fiberboard. The primary purpose of a tuck is to add structure to a handsewn shoe.
Oak Street’s Goodyear-welted shoes are constructed like all other Goodyear-welted shoes. In brief summary, we cement a canvas rib to the bottom of the insole, known as gemming. This gemming is stitched to the upper and welt with a Goodyear stitch. The welt wraps around the shoe, on top of the midsole or outsole. Then, a second stitch, known as the rapid stitch, stitches through the welt and midsole/outsole.
Aesthetic
Oak Street’s aesthetic can be described as a clean, modern approach to handsewn moccasins and boots. Their handsewn line is well-designed and without frills, although some would say it lacks the unique touches of Quoddy or Yuketen. They are extremely similar to Rancourt in aesthetic.
Their trench line shares most of their characteristics. The Elston last, although controversial, is described by most to be an aesthetically pleasing, slim last. Others see the last as having a duck-billed appearance, particularly on plaintoe models. Nevertheless, the trench line is cleanly designed.
Oak Street’s strength lies in having a very cohesive aesthetic. Focusing on minimal details and clean lines, Oak Street also keeps the number of materials used at a minimum. All their leathers come from Horween, and they primarily use chromexcel. The only exceptions lie in some suedes, the occasional shell cordovan, and their yet-to-be released waxed flesh offerings.
Customer Service
Oak Street’s biggest strengths and weaknesses arguably lie in customer service. Emailing the Oak Street customer service email will get you straight to either George or Tony, George’s assistant and second-in-command. In addition, it is easy to obtain their phone numbers to contact them directly. They also have a strong forum presence on StyleForum.
However, that presence has been lacking recently, and has been marked by some rather public PR gaffes. Although they are usually very helpful and accommodating to customers, the flagship boot of Oak Street, the natural shell trench boot, was surrounded by some controversy. Some customers argued that the boots were not finished well and that the Goodyear stitch was improperly done. George responded that it was simply how they lasted shell cordovan shoes, and that in Oak Street’s eyes, there were no issues with the boots. In addition, there was some controversy surrounding the desire of OSB to keep private their corporate relationships (by deleting comments and messaging users), despite the fact that such relationships are easily findable in newspapers.
Nevertheless, it is important to remember that most issues have been resolved by contacting Oak Street and speaking to George and Tony directly.
Final Thoughts
Oak Street is a brand that produces good-quality, American-made shoes from American leathers at a price point slightly higher than it probably should be. Their handsewns generally have a $40 markup over Rancourt, which produces similar products at a similar quality. Similarly, their trench line is arguably overpriced, as it produces boots no better than Red Wing at a price point that is significantly higher. Then again, Oak Street has a much sleeker, more modern aesthetic than Red Wing.
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2013.10.27 19:55 tabledresser [Table] IAmA: We are the Mozilla team who have been working on Lightbeam for Firefox---coming at you LIVE from the Mozilla Festival. Ask Us Anything.

Verified? (This bot cannot verify AMAs just yet)
Date: 2013-10-27
Link to submission (Has self-text)
Questions Answers
I use Ghostery, which blocks tons of trackers, and tells me who is tracking. Is this something different? Yes, Lightbeam is different. It is more of an educational tool about visualizing third party sites that get loaded, and does not block anything by default.
Does it/will it have an option to block trackers? It does have an option to block domains, if you feel that they are trackers. Lightbeam does not do any block anything, but in the List View you can choose to block a domain. Be careful with this feature though, because you will prevent all traffic to that site from Firefox (until/unless you unblock it).
Is there a specific reason to not block anything? I mean, it seems your offers in the way of user privacy have come off as soft. This, the do-not-track setting being disabled by default, etc. Is this in part due to pressure from donators? Are you worried a strong pro-user stance on these things would drive away a lot of your corporate sponsors? Lightbeam provides an option under the List view to either place a domain on a watch list or block it outright. We believe this is part of the educational value of the add-on to provide users with a way to play with and better understand the role of the companies they are interacting with on the Web.
Could you explain this from a non-techie perspective? The idea sounds great but what am I supposed to do with the information? When you visit a site in your browser, that site may load content from many other domains, which is basically invisible to you. Lightbeam lets you see those interconnections by visualizing all of the connections between different sites.
What you can do with the information is up to you, but one of the best things you can do is to share your connection data (we save very little about the connection, and attempt to strip all personal information away) to help us build an open, public database of third party connections to help further privacy research, and support tech/policy decisions. You can also use Lightbeam to watch sites (they will be displayed differently in the visualizations), hide sites (if you don't want them to show in visualizations), and block sites (the browser will no longer load any content from that site).
No idea how this hasn't been seen yet, but... erm, the webpage title for Lightbeam is spelled "Ligthbeam" and not "Lightbeam"... Did anyone else notice this or no? Derp -- can you tell us where exactly so we can fix it?
How has this product been received by corporations and countries? We spent a ton of time working with online publishers in developing Lightbeam. The prevalence of non­transparent online tracking continues to grow year over year. A recent study by the company Evidon, which produces the Ghostery add-on, showed a 53 percent increase in trackers from the prior year. Only 45 percent of the tracking tags identified by Evidon were placed there by the publisher of the site. So we have a goal to develop a crowdsourced open database from users of Lightbeam (on an opt-in basis), which we plan to make available to publishers to understand how third party services, widgets, ad tech, etc. are performing on their sites.
With lightbeam will i be able to keep all my fetishes hidden from targeted advertising? (I use ghostry but asain girls be all up in my area still) No, this is not really what Lightbeam is for.
Why are you all so damn handsome? It's just a byproduct of being so dedicated to keeping the internet awesome :)
Will any of you be joining me and ~30 other Mozillians on Tuesday for our community-wide AMA? :) We sure will!
I've used Lightbeam (and Collusion before it) and love it as an idea but the vast amount of trackers it finds really slows my browser down. Is there any way to stop this happening? Other than that, keep up the great work! That was a big part of what we're trying to address in this release. We rewrote big parts of the graph rendering and provide filters to reduce how many nodes get rendered.
It is still slow to switch from one visualization to another if you have a lot of data, which we'll be working on speeding up. There are other performance improvements we want to make, but it's already a lot faster than it was.
If you're still seeing it really slow down your browser, you can also file a bug and we'll look into it.
I experienced the same lag as Foggalong with Collusion and am currently using Lightbeam. Any evidence that use alongside Ghostery might be causing this? It could depend on a lot of factors: speed of your computer, version of Firefox, what other add-ons you have installed, and how much Lightbeam data you have collected.
Who keeps coming up with all of these excellent and free projects from Mozilla? As an open-source, community-driven, non-profit project, it's a part of our mission to give voice to new projects that are on the edges, and to help keep the internet open, free, innovative, and made by people.
Like, how do you just get a team to make a free product? Is there a cost justification that has to be done? I can see how this makes the Firefox better, but the path to making money on something like Rustlang is probably a lot less clear. Explain yourselves! Our mission is to promote openness, innovation & opportunity on the Web. So while we strive for excellence with our products like Firefox, we measure success ultimately by how well we're championing a web that's open, interoperable, and user-driven.
Is there something like this extension but for google chrome? Great question. When we launched the original version of Lightbeam, which was called Collusion, members of our community grabbed the code from Github and created versions for Safari and Chrome. We're hoping the same thing happens again. Here's the link to where all the Lightbeam code is online: Link to github.com
Hi. First of all I'd like to say how much I respect Mozilla for creating all this amazing software. Thank you. Then to the actual question: How does Lightbeam differ from tools like DoNotTrackMe or Ghostery? (Yes, I know that Ghostery sells data about users but I just used that as an example) There are a number of add-ons for Firefox that are focused on privacy and security, including Ghostery, DoNotTrackMe, Disconnect.me, etc. This is one way the larger community has tested and developed a number of innovative approaches to enhancing user control on the Web. However, most of these tools have focused on expert users or users who already have strongly held values on privacy. Our goal with Lightbeam is to bring this conversation to a much wider audience.
Does a similar extension exist for chrome? See above. All the code is available online: Link to github.com
ALL OF YOU!!! Chitty Chitty Bang Bang or Harold and Maude.
What is your favourite movie? Sneakers & War Games.
Could you check out our coding efforts at appsforaptitude.org? It would mean the world to us high school programmers. Thanks! We'd love to learn more about your work. We will certainly look at your site soon, but please tell us more about what you do. Thanks!
Why the rebranding of collusion? Is it a new project? The project is still the same, which has been supported by a grant from the Ford Foundation. We renamed the add-on to Lightbeam with these release as a way to expand the audience, including young people just now coming online and learning about how the Web works. We wanted a more playful, engaging and accessible name. So far the reaction has been super positive.
Was there a specific event that made y'all wanna creat This?! There wasn't a specific event but the inspiration came from a book called The Filter Bubble by Eli Pariser that inspired Mozilla software developer Atul Varma to begin this project.
In one sentence, why should I use Mozilla over Safari or Chrome? I might be biased because I work here, but I love using an open source, community-built portal to access the web, especially when it cares so deeply about privacy.
How do you plan to publicize this tool? More people should be aware! We're sharing as much as we can over our channels---but are always happy for the help. Also: this weekend we're using MozFest as a chance to build curriculum and more tech to educate users about privacy -- there's a lot more we can do to use tools like Lightbeam to educate people about how the web works, especially the parts that aren't immediately visible to the average user.
You guys had the idea before or after the NSA scandal? The idea for this project came long before the Snowden revelations.
Waaay before -- Mozilla developer Atul Varma started working on it as a personal project in July of 2011, and we've continued to iterate on it and improve it since.
PS -- the site has more history here: Link to www.mozilla.org
When did you start working on the project? Do you expect any retaliation from companies/government organizations in response to this? Is this really reliable and secure? We provided a bunch of info on the history of the project. We don't expect any retaliation for helping people become better informed users of the Web. That's crucial for all the companies working online. A number of publishers and trade groups provided input during the development of this version of the add-on. In terms of reliability and security, the work is open source and the code is on Github for review by anyone. We welcome your participation!
Question and not a question. My Question: Will Lightbeam be available for Mobile FireFox? Thanks for firefox, just discovered it is awesome again. Stopped using it after the UI change. Back to using it, it is amazing! Lightbeam is fairly demanding both of processing and data storage, not so bad on desktop, but not really appropriate on mobile. We would also have to completely rework the UI. There have been a lot of requests for this, but for the reasons above it is not really on our roadmap right now.
What's your favourite browser besides Firefox? As a long-time web developer, I lots of different browsers. I like Chrome for a lot of things, even though I use Firefox as my main browser.
I remember reading about the proof of concept of the evercookie- the one that recreates itself even if you clear your cookies. Have you found any sites that are using that technology? We show all third-party sites, regardless of whether they use cookies or not, although there is an option to highlight connections that use cookies. There are many types of tracking out there, which the Ghostery research blog goes over in great detail (Link to purplebox.ghostery.com) if you're interested in learning more about it. We don't specifically look at that at this point, though.
Ok. I currently use chrome and like it. I read about all this tracking shit with the NSA and advertisers and everything, and kind of get it but kind of don't overly care. Lightbeam aims to educate users on parts of the web we couldn't otherwise see --- and interactions between sites that you may not even be aware of. We hope that users continue to build on it, both with tech and through curriculum and other education initiatives.
Why switch, and what does this program do for my life? Mozilla values privacy --- in fact it's one of our core values and parts of our mission. If you want to learn more I'd encourage you to go to Link to mozilla.org
Could you please put back in the feature that would remember the zoom settings for different web pages? Could you also get the stop autoplay videos option to work? It seems like you release a new version every few months and I lose some feature that I liked. Thanks for your feedback -- we only work on the Lightbeam add-on, but we'll pass it on to the Firefox team!
When I installed Lightbeam, it took me a while to find the button in the add-on bar. A year ago I wouldn't even have the add-on bar open, which would've made it even more difficult to figure out how I would use it. There wasn't anything written about how to use it in the add-on's description page when I downloaded it. Why wasn't there? Sorry -- we can clarify in the text on the add-on page. Also, it's always available in the tools drop-down in Firefox.
When you were making lightbeam, did any company out there discourage you of making it since it lets the users know what 's going on behind the scenes? Nope! And since we're open source all the code has been available on GitHub as we've been building it.
Can you ask FFOS guys how do I fix this? Link to polishedperspective.com. In addition all weekend here at MozFest (www.mozillafestival.org) we've been sprinting to build the tech and curriculum to help educate users about privacy. And you can help us too! We're community-driven project, so user contribution to everything we make is at the core of what we do.
Also do you think people will treat Lightbeam as kind of a novelty look at it and just say "oh thats cool" or actually will change how they browse the web? Finding out how people use Lightbeam is one of the main things we are trying to find out. We're hoping that users will use Lightbeam as an educational tool. Already the idea behind it is to peel back the curtain on the parts of the web and interactions between sites that we can't immediately see. So even if people just use it because it's pretty or cool, they're still learning about privacy and data online.
There's a Mozilla Festival? Yup, every year! Link to www.mozillafestival.org
Firefox for Android crashes on media links. In other browsers it'll open a menu asking to stream the video on an external browser along with other android stuff but on Firefox it always crashes! Can this get looked into please? Thanks for flagging -- we'll make sure the Firefox for Android team knows about it.
Will there be lightbeam for mobile users in the future? Probably not. Lightbeam is a bit too heavyweight in both processing and data storage than mobiles can manage well, and the UI would have to be completely reworked. It's not on our roadmap right now.
Why isn't it called MozFest? It is called MozFest -- we just figured not everyone would know what that meant. www.mozillafestival.org
How do I get a job with you guys? :) Link to careers.mozilla.org
Maybe offtopic in regards to Lightbeam, but just wanted to say there are a lot of us who love & use Thunderbird. Please make sure your foundation continues to support it. Yup -- will do.
Yes! I'm a loyal Thunderbird user, too. It's been great to see our community continuing to support the program.
I just made the switch from google chrome to firefox. I trust you guys more when it comes to respecting my privacy. Thanks -- that means a lot to us.
Please ask the people sitting in the audience to do the wave. Edit: Nicely done! Done!
I just want to tell you that here at the computer repair store I work at we install Firefox with Adblock on every computer that comes through and most users love it. It's probably been over 15,000 computers. I'd like to thank you and the rest of Mozilla for the awesome work you do. Thank you! It's people like you who keep our work alive.
Been using firefox for 10yrs, just want to say thanks. p.s please create a minimise to tray icon setting for thunderbird without me having to install an add-on. We'll pass that on to the Thunderbird team.
All the Mozilla contributors I've met are pretty attractive... Looking good is a part of our code...
Chitty Chitty Bang Bang or Harold and Maude. Sneakers & War Games. I kind of love 28 Days Later...
There wasn't a specific event but the inspiration came from a book called The Filter Bubble by Eli Pariser that inspired Mozilla software developer Atul Varma to begin this project. Atul sat next to me in the Mozilla office in SF. After a weekend of hacking on his first prototype of Collusion, he came in and said "check this out." It blew me away! It was like a Wizard of Oz moment, as if Atul had pulled back the curtain and exposed the true inner workings of the Web. Atul worked on it for several more days, but in short order we decided to submit a proposal to TED for a talk and had presented a grant proposal to Ford Foundation. A few months later, our CEO at the time, Gary Kovacs, gave a TED talk on Collusion, which is now one of the most viewed videos on TED.com (Link to www.ted.com.)
I always thought of Mozilla as the "Hippies" of the internet..!! I mean that in a great way... You guys have the only web browser, that I will ever use... Thanks for all you do.. !!! I been around since Netscape Navigator 3.. Ya I know ancient times.. Thank you! I kind of think of us as the "hippies" of the internet too.
Lightbeam doesn't appear to show any nsa spying, just a bunch of cookies. Yup -- that's right: Because it operates within the browser, Lightbeam doesn't have the ability to to monitor tracking that goes on behind the scenes---stuff like advertisers that monitor data from server to server, or even government subpoenas (like the NSA).
I've been a die hard Firefox user, i thing the way its all set up is really awesome and nice looking pretty much im sure ill still use it till i die :). PM: You guys hiring :) And yes, always: Link to careers.mozilla.org
Just wanted to tell you I found out about it Friday and installed it right away. Love it. Frightened by what it's telling me though. The truth is out there but it's very, very scary. Thanks for that feedback -- and glad it's doing what it's supposed to, which is pulling back the curtain on the way the web works and showing you interactions you couldn't otherwise see.
See above. All the code is available online: Link to github.com. Because everything Mozilla builds is open source, we encourage you to take the code and build it yourself!
Ive actually recently switched to Firefox! I've been having trust issues with Google ever since the start of the NSA leaks. Glad to have you as a user!
Watching the livestream. Someone please say that it smells like updog in there. Just did
The livestream on air.mozilla.org/lightbeam is boring right now. Start dancing! We just brought the fox out here for you!
Last updated: 2013-10-31 18:03 UTC
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